The 2018-2023 K-beauty ingredient phenomenon featuring centella asiatica (tiger grass/CICA) for soothing irritation, healing, and calming sensitive skin, becoming essential ingredient in redness-reducing, barrier-repairing products.
Origins
Centella asiatica entered Western skincare consciousness in July 2018:
- Korean skincare staple: Traditional Asian medicine ingredient
- “Tiger grass” legend: Tigers roll in it to heal wounds
- Dr. Jart+ Cicapair: Popularized CICA branding (2017-2018)
- Soothing properties: Anti-inflammatory, healing benefits
The ingredient addressed rising sensitive skin concerns from over-exfoliation and actives overuse.
Scientific Benefits
Centella asiatica contains beneficial compounds:
Active components:
- Madecassoside: Anti-inflammatory
- Asiaticoside: Wound healing
- Asiatic acid: Collagen synthesis
- Madecassic acid: Antioxidant
Proven effects:
- Reduces inflammation/redness
- Supports wound healing
- Strengthens skin barrier
- Calms irritation
The science backed traditional medicine claims.
Product Explosion
CICA products flooded market:
K-beauty leaders:
- Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment ($52): Color-changing cult product
- COSRX Pure Fit Cica Serum ($20): Affordable essence
- La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 ($15): French pharmacy staple
- Purito Centella Green Level Calming Toner ($15): Gentle hydration
Product types:
- Creams, serums, toners
- Sheet masks
- Color-correcting treatments
- Spot treatments
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair
One product drove mainstream adoption:
Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment:
- Green cream turns beige (color-adapting)
- Neutralizes redness
- SPF 30 protection
- $52 cult status
The color-changing gimmick plus real benefits created viral product.
Sensitive Skin Solution
Centella addressed modern skincare concerns:
Why it resonated:
- Over-exfoliation epidemic (retinol, acids)
- Damaged skin barriers
- Redness, irritation common
- Gentle, soothing needed
CICA products became recovery treatment after aggressive actives.
Redness Reduction
Major selling point:
- Rosacea symptom management
- Post-procedure healing (lasers, peels)
- General redness calming
- Sunburn recovery
The anti-inflammatory properties showed visible results quickly.
Staying Power
Centella maintained relevance:
- 680 million+ views (2018-2023+)
- Ingredient category establishment
- Product expansion ongoing
- Dermatologist recommendation
By 2023, centella/CICA was standard soothing ingredient—recommended for sensitive, reactive skin.
Legacy
Centella demonstrated K-beauty’s successful ingredient introduction to Western markets through scientific backing and targeted problem-solving for damaged skin barriers.
Sources:
- Byrdie: “What Is Centella Asiatica?” (2019)
- Allure: “Best CICA Products” (2020)