#ChemicalExfoliant
Chemical exfoliants—using acids (AHAs, BHAs) instead of physical scrubs—became skincare orthodoxy in 2017-2019. The method promised smoother, brighter skin without the micro-tears caused by abrasive scrubs.
Types of Chemical Exfoliants
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) - Water-Soluble:
- Glycolic acid (smallest molecule, deepest penetration, anti-aging)
- Lactic acid (gentler, hydrating, brightening)
- Mandelic acid (large molecule, sensitive skin-friendly)
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) - Oil-Soluble:
- Salicylic acid (penetrates pores, treats acne, reduces sebum)
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids):
- Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid (ultra-gentle, barrier-strengthening)
The Education Movement
2017-2019 saw mass education on:
- Physical scrubs are harmful (St. Ives Apricot Scrub lawsuit, 2016)
- Chemical = not scary (acids are gentle when formulated correctly)
- pH matters (effective exfoliants need pH 3-4)
Cult Products
- Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid ($32, salicylic acid legend)
- The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution ($8, “blood mask”)
- CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid ($25, gentle daily option)
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos ($90, luxury glycolic blend)
The “Blood Mask” Phenomenon
The Ordinary’s red AHA/BHA peel became Instagram’s most photogenic skincare moment. Users posted selfies with the bright red mask, showcasing dramatic results.
Cultural Shift
By 2020, “chemical exfoliant” replaced “scrub” in beauty vocabulary. Brands reformulated or discontinued physical exfoliants to avoid backlash.
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