Overview
Oversized, bulky sneakers with thick soles and retro aesthetics - intentionally “ugly” fashion statement that dominated 2017-2020.
Origins
2017: Balenciaga Triple S ($895) launched ugly/chunky sneaker movement. Demna Gvasalia embraced ironic bad taste as high fashion.
Key Silhouettes
- Balenciaga Triple S (2017, $895)
- Nike M2K Tekno (2018, $100)
- Fila Disruptor (1990s revival, 2017+)
- Yeezy 500/700 (Kanye’s chunky era)
- New Balance 990v5 (dad shoe legitimacy)
- HOKA running shoes (function meets fashion)
Cultural Context
Part of “ugly fashion” movement including Birkenstocks, Crocs, and normcore. Rejected sleek minimalism for ironic maximalism.
Peak Popularity
2018-2019: Every brand launched chunky sneakers. Sold out at Foot Locker, Nordstrom, SSENSE. Sneaker resale market boomed.
Decline & Legacy
2020+: Pandemic shifted toward comfortable running shoes and retro Jordan 1s. Chunky sneakers remained but lost “it” factor.
Market Impact
Reshaped footwear industry. Legitimized “ugly” as desirable. Made New Balance and Skechers cool for first time in decades.