The 2017-2023 first-cleanse revolution replacing makeup wipes and micellar water with luxurious, oil-based balms that melt makeup while nourishing skin, becoming K-beauty double cleansing staple.
Origins
Cleansing balms entered Western routines in December 2017:
- K-beauty double cleansing: Oil cleanse first, water cleanse second
- Banila Co Clean It Zero ($18): Korean cult product
- Texture transformation: Solid balm → oil → milky emulsion
- Gentle effectiveness: Removes everything without stripping
The balms made oil cleansing less messy, more luxurious than liquid oils.
How They Work
Cleansing balm mechanism:
- Scoop solid balm with dry hands
- Massage onto dry face (melts to oil)
- Breaks down makeup, SPF, sebum
- Add water (emulsifies to milk)
- Rinse clean (no residue)
- Follow with water-based cleanser
The solid-to-oil-to-milk transformation felt indulgent, effective.
Cult Products
Specific balms achieved hero status:
K-beauty:
- Banila Co Clean It Zero ($18): Original, multiple versions
- Heimish All Clean Balm ($17): Herbal scent, effective
- **Farm
acy Cleansing Balm** ($20): Green Clean, eco-friendly
Western:
- Clinique Take The Day Off ($30): Dermatologist-developed
- The Body Shop Camomile Cleansing Butter ($16): Soothing
- Drunk Elephant Slaai Makeup-Melting Butter Cleanser ($34): Luxury
Price range: $15-40, accessible luxury.
Makeup Wipe Replacement
Balms addressed environmental concerns:
- Disposable wipes wasteful
- Balms reusable (sustainable)
- More effective removal
- Better for skin (less tugging)
The eco-conscious angle drove adoption beyond just efficacy.
Product Variations
Balms evolved into categories:
Original cleansing balms:
- Remove all makeup
- Full-face cleanse
- Evening use primarily
Sherbet textures:
- Lighter, whipped consistency
- More luxurious feel
- Same effectiveness
Targeted versions:
- Sensitive skin formulas
- Anti-aging ingredients
- Acne-safe options
Double Cleansing Integration
Balms became step one:
Evening routine:
- Cleansing balm (remove makeup/SPF)
- Water-based cleanser (clean skin)
- Skincare routine
The two-step system thoroughly cleansed without over-stripping.
Benefits Beyond Cleansing
Balms offered extras:
- Nourishing oils (not drying)
- Massage moment (relaxing)
- Ritual enjoyment (self-care)
- Spa-like experience (affordable luxury)
The sensorial pleasure elevated mundane task.
Staying Power
Cleansing balms achieved permanence:
- 580 million+ views (2017-2023+)
- Routine staple (not trend)
- Product category expansion
- Clean beauty embrace
By 2023, cleansing balms were essential first-cleanse option, especially for makeup wearers.
Legacy
Cleansing balms successfully introduced oil cleansing to Western audiences through luxurious texture and environmental benefits, replacing makeup wipes.
Sources:
- Allure: “Best Cleansing Balms” (2019)
- Byrdie: “Why Cleansing Balms Are Better Than Wipes” (2018)