DenaliExpedition

Instagram 2012-07 travel active
Also known as: DenaliMtMcKinleyWestButtress

Denali (formerly Mount McKinley) is North America’s highest peak at 20,310 feet. The hashtag documents one of the Seven Summits, known for brutal weather (-40°F temps, 100+ mph winds), crevasse fields, and high-altitude suffering.

Climbing Season

May-July climbing window (24-hour daylight). Approximately 1,200 climbers attempt annually, with 50-60% success rate. The West Buttress route (most popular) takes 17-21 days round trip from basecamp.

Route & Camps

  • Base Camp (7,200 ft): Kahiltna Glacier landing via ski plane
  • Camp 1 (7,800 ft): First glacier camp
  • Camp 2 (9,500 ft): Below Motorcycle Hill
  • Camp 3 (11,200 ft): Windy Corner cache point
  • Camp 4 (14,200 ft): Medical camp, acclimatization point
  • High Camp (17,200 ft): Launch point for summit push
  • Summit (20,310 ft): Denali Pass, Archdeacon’s Tower, summit plateau

Challenges

Extreme cold (coldest mountain outside Antarctica/Asia), altitude sickness, crevasse falls, avalanches, and punishing storms that trap climbers for days. Carrying 60-80 lb packs plus sled hauls.

Required Gear

Double plastic boots, down suits, expedition-weight sleeping bags (-40°F), sleds for gear haul, and extensive cold-weather equipment. Total gear cost: $5,000-$10,000+.

Notable Statistics

  • Success rate: ~50% (weather-dependent)
  • Deaths: 120+ since 1932 (avg 3-4/year recent decades)
  • Coldest recorded: -75.5°F (summit)
  • Fastest ascent: 7 hours 40 minutes (Kilian Jornet, 2014)

Guided Expeditions

Alpine Ascents, RMI Expeditions, and Alaska Mountaineering School guide majority of climbers (~$8,000-$12,000 per person).

Sources: Denali National Park, American Alpine Club

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