English Paper Piecing (EPP) is a hand-sewing quilting technique where fabric is basted around paper templates, then whipstitched together to create geometric patchwork. The centuries-old method experienced a renaissance 2013-2020 as quilters embraced its portable, meditative nature and Instagram-worthy hexagon designs.
Technique Basics
Process:
- Cut paper templates (typically hexagons, diamonds, triangles)
- Cut fabric slightly larger than template
- Baste fabric edges over paper (hand or glue)
- Whipstitch shapes together edge-to-edge
- Remove papers when section complete
- Press flat, assemble into quilt top
Why Hexagons Dominate:
- Six-sided shape creates flower patterns (central hex + 6 surrounding = rosette)
- Tessellates perfectly (no gaps)
- Forgiving (slight inaccuracies less visible than squares)
- Visually interesting (less common than square blocks)
Historical Context
Victorian Origins: English grandmothers pieced hexagons by hand (only option pre-sewing machines). Most famous antique: Grandmother’s Flower Garden quilts (1930s-40s pastel Depression-era quilts).
Near Extinction (1980s-2000s): Rotary cutters and sewing machines made EPP seem inefficient. Dismissed as “slow,” “old-fashioned,” “impractical.” Nearly died out except among historical reenactors and antique quilt collectors.
Social Media Revival (2013-2018)
Instagram Portability: EPP perfectly suited for visual platform:
- Carry hand-sewing anywhere (doctor’s office, airplanes, soccer practice)
- Photo at cafes, parks, beaches (“taking my hexies to…”)
- Progress shots (daily rosette completions)
- Flat-lay fabric choices (planning next flower)
Hashtag Growth:
- 2013: 20K posts (emerging vintage craft revival)
- 2016: 200K posts (modern quilt community adoption)
- 2019: 600K posts (peak Instagram quilting era)
Influential Makers:
- @sue_daley_designs (Australian EPP queen, 80K followers, template innovator)
- @katjamarek (The New Hexagon author, pattern designer)
- @fabricandflowers (UK, elaborate EPP + appliqué quilts)
Modern Innovations
Template Evolution:
- Pre-cut paper packs (no DIY cutting, laser precision)
- Acrylic templates (reusable, trace onto cardstock)
- Glue basting (Sewline glue pen vs hand basting, faster)
- Freezer paper method (iron-on, no basting thread removal)
- Plastic templates (infinite reuse, eco-friendly)
Design Expansion: Beyond hexagons:
- Diamonds (tumbling blocks, 3D cube illusion)
- Clamshells (overlapping scales, mermaid aesthetic)
- Curves (Drunkard’s Path, traditionally machine-pieced)
- Mixed shapes (hexagons + triangles + diamonds in one quilt)
- Tiny shapes (1/2” hexagons, precision challenge)
Community Culture
Slow Stitching Movement: EPP aligned with broader slow-craft philosophy:
- Meditative repetitive motion (mindfulness practice)
- Portable (stitch during life’s waiting moments)
- Sustainable (use fabric scraps, no electricity)
- Heirloom quality (hand-sewn durability)
EPP-Alongs: Instagram group challenges:
- #HexyMF (modern improv hexies, swearing encouraged)
- #EPPParty (monthly shared projects)
- #HexiePlus (hexagon + shape combinations)
Facebook Groups:
- “English Paper Piecing Addicts” (60K members)
- “Hexie Junkies” (40K members, pattern sharing)
- “EPP Tips and Tricks” (30K members, troubleshooting)
Tool Ecosystem
Must-Haves:
- Paper templates (pre-cut packs $10-30 per 100)
- Milliners needles (long, thin, sharp, perfect for whipstitch)
- Aurifil thread (50wt, fine, color-matches fabric)
- Clover clips (hold papers in fabric while basting)
- Sewline glue pen (washable basting glue)
- Thread Heaven (conditioner prevents tangles)
Template Suppliers:
- Paper Pieces (US, thousands of pre-cut options)
- Sue Daley Designs (Australia, specialty shapes)
- Hugs ‘N Kisses (UK, English made)
Critiques & Realities
Time Investment:
- Full quilt = 200-500+ hours hand sewing
- Many projects abandoned at throw-pillow size
- “EPP black hole” jokes (projects take years)
Cost Considerations:
- Pre-cut papers expensive ($0.10-0.30 per piece)
- Fussy-cutting fabric (specific pattern placements) wastes yardage
- Thread consumption high (tiny stitches, color matching)
Physical Challenges:
- Hand strain (repetitive motion injuries)
- Eye strain (tiny stitches, precision)
- Finger calluses (needle pushing)
Pandemic Resurgence (2020-2021)
Lockdown Perfect Craft:
- Portable (move around house)
- Quiet (Zoom meeting stealth sewing)
- Meditative (anxiety relief)
- Low-tech (no machine access needed)
- Scrap-busting (use quarantine fabric stash)
New Maker Wave: Thousands tried EPP first time:
- YouTube tutorials hundreds of thousands of views
- Template suppliers sold out repeatedly
- Online fabric shops added EPP starter kits
Contemporary Status (2022-2023)
Mature Niche:
- Stable practitioner community (less trending, more embedded)
- Integration with other techniques (EPP + machine quilting hybrids)
- Continued innovation (shaped templates, color planning apps)
- Next-gen quilters learning from Instagram elders
Applications:
- Pillows (achievable finish, 50-100 hexagons)
- Table runners (holiday projects, seasonal fabrics)
- Medallion centers (EPP middle, machine-pieced borders)
- Minis (doll quilts, wall hangings, 12x12” frames)
- Epic quilts (multi-year projects, legacy pieces)
The hashtag documents EPP’s transformation from endangered historical technique to thriving modern practice. Social media’s role crucial—portability suited Instagram lifestyle content, visual appeal showcased fabric choices, community support sustained long-term projects. Proves slow crafts can thrive in fast digital age when positioned as mindfulness practice, portable luxury, and creative meditation.
https://www.paperpieces.com
gns.com
https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/englishpaperpiecing/
https://www.amazon.com/New-Hexagon-Katja-Marek/dp/1607054698