The 2016-2023 skincare movement embracing plant-based oils as treatment, moisturizer, and glow-enhancer, overcoming “oil clogs pores” myth through education about beneficial fatty acids and skin barrier support.
Origins
Face oils went mainstream in October 2016:
- Sunday Riley Luna Oil ($105): Luxury retinol oil popularized category
- Natural beauty movement: Plant-based ingredients trending
- Oil cleansing success: Made oils less scary
- Dewy skin trend: Oils delivered glow
The shift required overcoming decades of “oil-free” marketing—oils as solution, not problem.
Breaking the Myth
Education changed perception:
Old belief:
- “Oil clogs pores”
- “Oily skin doesn’t need oil”
- “Oil causes acne”
Reality:
- Right oils don’t clog (non-comedogenic)
- Oily skin can benefit (balancing)
- Oils support barrier (reduce inflammation)
Dermatologist education and success stories shifted mindset.
Oil Types
Different oils served different needs:
Rosehip:
- Vitamin A (gentle retinol alternative)
- Vitamin C (brightening)
- Dry skin, anti-aging
Squalane:
- Biomimetic (skin-like)
- Lightweight, non-greasy
- All skin types
Marula:
- Antioxidant-rich
- Lightweight absorption
- Anti-aging, glow
Jojoba:
- Sebum-similar structure
- Balancing for oily skin
- Non-comedogenic
Argan:
- Vitamin E rich
- Nourishing, smoothing
- Dry, mature skin
Oil selection crucial—wrong oil could cause issues.
Product Range
Face oil market grew exponentially:
Luxury:
- Sunday Riley Luna ($105): Retinol oil
- Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Oil ($72): Pure marula
- Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil ($130): Natural retinol
Mid-range:
- The Ordinary 100% Organic Cold-Pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil ($10): Affordable
- Herbivore Lapis Oil ($48): Blue tansy, balancing
- Indie Lee Squalane Oil ($32): Clean, simple
Drugstore:
- Neutrogena Hydro Boost Oil ($15): Accessible
- Burt’s Bees Complete Nourishment Oil ($15): Natural
Price: $10-130, accessible range.
Usage Methods
Versatile application:
Solo:
- Last step (seal moisture)
- Alone (minimal routine)
Mixed:
- With moisturizer (boost)
- With foundation (dewy finish)
Layered:
- After water-based products
- Before occlusive
The flexibility made oils adaptable to any routine.
Oily Skin Adoption
Breakthrough realization:
- Stripping oily skin triggers more oil production
- Balancing with right oil reduces excess sebum
- Lightweight oils (squalane, jojoba) don’t exacerbate
- Hydration ≠ oiliness
Oily skin users discovering oils beneficial revolutionary.
Glow Enhancement
Oils delivered coveted dewy skin:
- Natural luminosity (light-reflecting)
- Healthy sheen (not greasy)
- Makeup mixing (glowy base)
The aesthetic benefit as important as skincare.
Staying Power
Face oils achieved permanence:
- 820 million+ views (2016-2023+)
- Routine staple
- Category establishment
- Innovation ongoing (blends, targeted formulas)
By 2023, face oils were skincare fundamental—no longer controversial.
Legacy
Face oils demonstrated how education could overcome ingrained beauty myths and how natural ingredients could deliver both efficacy and sensorial pleasure.
Sources:
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology: “Facial Oils in Skincare” (2018)
- Allure: “Best Face Oils” (2020)
- Byrdie: “Face Oils for Every Skin Type” (2019)