The 2020-2023 hair care ritual using oils on scalp and strands for nourishment, growth stimulation, and damage repair, bringing ancient Ayurvedic practice into mainstream through TikTok education and pandemic self-care.

Origins

Hair oiling went mainstream in September 2020:

• Ayurvedic tradition: Indian “champi” scalp massage with oil (centuries old)
• TikTok education: South Asian creators sharing cultural practice
• Pandemic self-care: At-home hair treatments during salon closures
• Natural hair movement: Embracing oils for textured hair health

The practice represented both cultural exchange and return to natural hair care methods.

The Technique

Hair oiling application:

Pre-wash treatment (most common):

1. Section hair
2. Apply oil to scalp (massage)
3. Work through lengths and ends
4. Leave 30 min to overnight
5. Shampoo out thoroughly

Leave-in treatment:

• Small amount on ends only
• Frizz control, shine
• No wash-out needed

The pre-wash method provided deep conditioning; leave-in offered daily care.

Oil Types

Different oils served different needs:

Coconut oil:

• Penetrates hair shaft
• Protein retention
• Deep conditioning
• Best for: Thick, coarse hair

Argan oil:

• Lightweight, non-greasy
• Shine, smoothness
• Heat protection
• Best for: Fine to medium hair

Castor oil:

• Thick, viscous
• Growth stimulation claims
• Scalp health
• Best for: Scalp treatments, edges

Rosemary oil:

• Scalp stimulation
• Growth promotion studies
• Dilute in carrier oil
• Best for: Growth concerns

Jojoba oil:

• Sebum-like properties
• Balances scalp
• Non-comedogenic
• Best for: Oily scalps

Scalp Health Focus

The scalp care angle:

• Healthy scalp = healthy hair growth
• Oil massage increases circulation
• Anti-inflammatory properties (some oils)
• Dandruff, dryness relief

The shift from hair-only to scalp-focused care approach.

Cultural Appreciation vs. Appropriation

Important conversations emerged:

Cultural context:

• South Asian practice (champi tradition)
• African hair care staple
• Middle Eastern beauty ritual

Western adoption:

• Credit to origins important
• Learning from cultural practices
• Respectful integration vs. claiming as new

The discourse highlighted need for cultural acknowledgment.

Product Innovations

Brands created hair oil products:

Traditional oils:

• Mielle Rosemary Mint Oil ($10)
• Briogeo Scalp Revival Oil ($42)
• The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum ($18)

Luxury blends:

• Oribe Gold Lust Oil ($59)
• Kérastase Elixir Ultime ($58)
• Moroccanoil Treatment ($44)

Drugstore:

• OGX Coconut Oil ($7)
• Palmer’s Coconut Oil ($5)
• Garnier Whole Blends ($6)

Price range: $5-60, extremely accessible.

Rosemary Oil Trend

Specific oil went viral (2022):

The claim:

• Study showed rosemary oil comparable to minoxidil for hair growth
• TikTok exploded with rosemary oil content
• Product sellouts across brands

The reality:

• Study small, needs more research
• Results take months
• Must dilute in carrier oil
• No miracle cure, but promising

The hype exceeded evidence but sparked interest in scalp health.

Hair Type Considerations

Not one-size-fits-all:

Fine hair:

• Lightweight oils only (argan, jojoba)
• Small amounts
• Ends-focused

Thick/coarse hair:

• Heavier oils (coconut, castor)
• Generous application
• Scalp to ends

Oily scalp:

• Avoid heavy oils on scalp
• Jojoba balances sebum
• Ends-only application

Dry scalp:

• All oils work well
• Focus on scalp massage
• Regular treatments beneficial

Common Mistakes

Application errors:

• Using too much (greasy, hard to wash)
• Wrong oil for hair type
• Not washing out properly (buildup)
• Expecting instant results
• Applying to wet hair (less penetration)

Corrections:

• Start small, add more if needed
• Research oil properties
• Double shampoo if needed
• Patience (months for growth)
• Always dry or damp hair

Staying Power

Hair oiling achieved mainstream status:

• 850 million+ views (2020-2023+)
• Routine integration (weekly to monthly)
• Product category growth
• Scalp care emphasis

By 2023, hair oiling was established hair care practice—not trend, but maintenance ritual.

Legacy

Hair oiling demonstrated how ancient cultural practices could become mainstream wellness rituals through social media education and pandemic-era self-care emphasis.

Sources:

• Allure: “The Benefits of Hair Oiling” (2021)
• Byrdie: “Best Hair Oils for Every Hair Type” (2022)
• Vogue: “Hair Oiling Is TikTok’s Latest Obsession” (2020)