Overview
Adam Ondra is a Czech professional climber who pushed sport climbing difficulty to 5.15d (9c French grade)—the hardest confirmed grade in climbing. His 2017 first ascent of “Silence” in Norway set the standard for the upper limits of human climbing ability.
The First 9c
On September 3, 2017, Ondra completed “Silence,” a 45-meter route he spent two years working. The route remains unrepeated as of 2023. His ascent video, featuring distinctive high-pitched screams of effort, became a climbing meme.
Competition Dominance
Ondra won the IFSC Lead World Championship six times (2009, 2014, 2019-2021) and the Bouldering World Championship twice (2014, 2021). He’s the only climber to win both disciplines in the same year.
Olympic Performance
Despite being the favorite for Tokyo 2020, Ondra placed 6th due to struggles in speed climbing (which he called “a completely different sport”). His Olympic disappointment sparked renewed debate about the combined format.
Sources
- “Silence” first ascent: September 3, 2017 (confirmed by petzl.com)
- IFSC competition records: ifsc-climbing.org
- Tokyo 2020 results (August 5, 2021)