The 2020-2023 skincare trend of applying occlusive products (typically Vaseline) as the final step in nighttime routines to lock in moisture, creating a “slug-like” glossy appearance that went viral on TikTok.

Origins

Slugging—covering the face in petroleum jelly or heavy occlusives overnight—emerged on TikTok in November 2020 as pandemic skincare routines intensified:

• Korean skincare roots: Long-standing K-beauty practice
• TikTok discovery: Western creators “discovering” occlusive layering
• Pandemic skin barriers: Mask-wearing, indoor heating damaging skin
• Charlotte Cho popularization: Soko Glam founder explaining practice

The term “slugging” came from the shiny, slug-like appearance of Vaseline-covered faces—initially used humorously, then adopted genuinely.

How It Works

Slugging follows specific application:

The method:

1. Complete normal skincare routine
2. Apply thin layer of occlusive (Vaseline, Aquaphor, CeraVe Healing Ointment)
3. Sleep with glossy layer on face
4. Wake up to hydrated, plump skin

The science:

• Occlusives create barrier preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
• Locks in hydrating products applied underneath
• Prevents moisture evaporation overnight
• Supports skin barrier repair

Dermatologists confirmed the practice works—petroleum jelly is non-comedogenic despite seeming heavy.

TikTok Phenomenon

#Slugging exploded on TikTok:

Content types:

• Before/after slugging results
• “Slug with me” nighttime routines
• Product recommendations (best occlusives)
• Slugging fails (breakouts, pillow staining)

The hashtag reached 1.2 billion+ views by 2022, with dermatologists (@dermdoctor, @drdrayzday) validating the trend.

Product Recommendations

Slugging sparked occlusive product boom:

Classic options:

• Vaseline ($5-8): Original, affordable
• Aquaphor ($10-15): Dermatologist-recommended
• CeraVe Healing Ointment ($15-18): Ceramide-enriched
• La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume ($15): Soothing alternative

K-beauty occlusives:

• COSRX Honey Overnight Mask ($18): Honey-based
• Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask ($24): For lips specifically
• I’m From Mugwort Mask ($25): Herbal occlusive

Sales of Vaseline and Aquaphor increased 30%+ in 2021-2022, driven by slugging trend.

Dermatologist Perspective

Dermatologists provided professional validation:

Pros:

• Evidence-based moisture retention
• Helps compromised skin barriers
• Affordable, accessible
• Non-irritating for most skin types

Cons:

• Can cause breakouts (acne-prone skin)
• Pillow staining concerns
• Not suitable for oily/acne-prone without caution
• Doesn’t add hydration (just seals it in)

Recommended for:

• Dry, dehydrated skin
• Eczema, rosacea (barrier issues)
• Winter/dry climate skin damage
• Post-procedure healing (chemical peels, etc.)

Not recommended for:

• Active acne
• Very oily skin
• Fungal acne susceptibility

Variations and Adaptations

Slugging evolved beyond basic Vaseline:

Partial slugging:

• Only on dry areas (cheeks, not T-zone)
• Lips, hands, elbows (spot treatment)
• Under-eye only

Alternative occlusives:

• Squalane oil (lighter feel)
• Ceramide creams (added benefits)
• Snail mucin (K-beauty hybrid)

Modified routines:

• 2-3x per week (not nightly)
• Seasonal (winter only)
• Post-treatment (after actives)

Common Mistakes

TikTok featured slugging error content:

Mistakes:

• Slugging over active ingredients (trapping irritants)
• Using on unwashed skin (sealing in dirt)
• Too much product (creates mess)
• Every night (unnecessary for most)
• On acne-prone skin without testing

Correct approach:

• Cleanse thoroughly first
• Use actives (retinol, acids) earlier
• Thin layer suffices
• 2-3x weekly for maintenance
• Patch test if acne-prone

Pillow Staining Solutions

Practical concerns generated content:

Solutions:

• Dedicated “slugging pillowcase”
• Towel over pillow
• Silk pillowcases (less absorption)
• Sleeping on back
• Less product (thin layer)

The aesthetic vs. practicality tension became meme material—looking like a slug for better skin.

Scientific Validation

Research supported slugging benefits:

Studies showed:

• Petroleum jelly reduces TEWL by 99%
• Supports skin barrier repair
• Helps ceramide retention
• Non-comedogenic despite heaviness

Dermatology journals published articles on occlusive therapy, giving TikTok trend scientific legitimacy.

Staying Power

Slugging showed sustained relevance:

• 2020-2023+: Three years of practice
• 1.2 billion+ views: Ongoing engagement
• Dermatologist endorsement: Professional validation
• Product innovation: Brands creating “slugging products”

By 2023, slugging had transitioned from viral trend to legitimate skincare practice—dermatologist-recommended technique.

Legacy

The slugging trend demonstrated:

• K-beauty’s continued Western influence
• TikTok’s power to mainstream niche practices
• Dermatologist validation crucial for skincare trends
• Affordable effectiveness (Vaseline works)

Slugging proved that simple, evidence-based skincare could go viral when explained accessibly and demonstrated visually.

Sources:

• Allure: “What Is Slugging?” (2021)
• Vogue: “Slugging Is TikTok’s Favorite Skincare Trend” (2020)
• Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology: “Occlusive Therapy in Dermatology” (2019)