Origins
#UnderpaintingMakeup went viral on TikTok in July 2021 when makeup artist Mary Phillips (@maryphillips) demonstrated the technique on Hailey Bieber. The method reverses traditional makeup order: apply color products (blush, bronzer, contour) BEFORE foundation, then layer base on top.
The technique isn’t new — professional makeup artists used it for years for longevity and natural finish — but TikTok democratized the “secret.”
Technique
Traditional order: Skincare → primer → foundation → concealer → powder → blush/bronzer/contour
Underpainting order:
- Skincare + primer
- Color corrector (if needed)
- Cream blush, bronzer, contour (applied to bare skin)
- Blend thoroughly
- Foundation (sheer-medium coverage)
- Concealer (spot conceal)
- Set with powder (optional)
- Highlight, powder blush/bronzer (optional layering)
Why It Works
- Natural flush: Color shows through foundation like real skin
- Longevity: Color sits beneath foundation, lasts longer
- Buildable: Layer powder products on top for intensity
- No cakiness: Less product layering overall
- Skin-like finish: Mimics how real blush/warmth appears
Mary Phillips’ Viral Moment
Phillips’ July 2021 Instagram Reel on Hailey Bieber:
- 15M+ views
- Showcased Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Liquid Blush underpainting
- Explained technique in caption: “The secret to natural-looking color”
- TikTok creators rushed to recreate
Key Products
Best for underpainting:
- Cream blush: Rare Beauty Soft Pinch, Glossier Cloud Paint, Milk Makeup Lip + Cheek
- Cream bronzer: Fenty Cheeks Out, Charlotte Tilbury Beach Stick
- Cream contour: Makeup by Mario Soft Sculpt, Anastasia Cream Contour Kit
Avoid: Powder products (apply AFTER foundation), super pigmented liquids (hard to blend under foundation)
Celebrity Adoption
- Hailey Bieber: Mary Phillips’ signature client, Rhode Skin founder
- Selena Gomez: Hung Vanngo (MUA) uses technique, Rare Beauty blushes designed for underpainting
- Rosie Huntington-Whiteley: Natural makeup aesthetic, minimal coverage
- Meghan Markle: Daniel Martin (MUA) uses underpainting for natural royal look
TikTok Explosion
July-September 2021: Peak virality
- Beauty creators tested technique, compared to traditional
- “Before vs After” videos showed natural flush
- Product recommendations (Rare Beauty Blush sold out repeatedly)
Creators:
- @mikayla.nogueira (15M followers): “This changed my makeup game”
- @glamzilla (Hung Vanngo, Selena’s MUA): Professional validation
- @allisonkuch: “Why didn’t anyone tell me this sooner?”
Criticisms
- Sheer foundation required: Doesn’t work with full coverage (hides underpainting)
- Technique-dependent: Easy to mess up blending, leave streaks
- Color matching: Hard to predict how color looks through foundation
- Dry skin: Cream products can cling to dry patches
Evolution
By 2022, the trend evolved:
- Color corrector underpainting: Green for redness, peach for dark circles (before concealer)
- Highlighter underpainting: Cream glow beneath foundation (2022)
- Lip underpainting: Lip liner + lipstick before foundation for natural stain (2023)
Related Techniques
- Reverse contour (2020): Highlighting center of face first, then darkening perimeter
- Sandwich method (2019): Concealer → powder → concealer (crease-prevention)
- Baking (2016): Heavy powder set, brush off after 5-10 minutes
Sources
- Mary Phillips Instagram (@maryphillips) - Hailey Bieber underpainting Reel (July 2021)
- Allure - “What Is Underpainting Makeup?” (August 2021)
- @mikayla.nogueira TikTok - “Underpainting changed my life” (August 2021, 8M+ views)
- Hung Vanngo (@hungvanngo) Instagram - Selena Gomez underpainting tutorial (2021)