The 2017-2020 luxury fashion trend that transformed unfashionable chunky athletic shoes into coveted status symbols, led by Balenciaga’s Triple S and industry-wide “ugly luxury” movement.

Origins

Balenciaga’s Spring 2017 runway featured the Triple S sneaker—a deliberately chunky, multilayered athletic shoe that resembled something a middle-aged dad would wear to mow the lawn. Creative director Demna Gvasalia’s design combined three types of sneakers (running, basketball, track) into one exaggerated silhouette with a thick, stacked sole.

Fashion critics initially mocked the $850 shoes as grotesque. But the Triple S sold out immediately, sparking a luxury sneaker arms race:

• Balenciaga Triple S (2017): The original, 3-layered sole, distressed finish
• Gucci Rhyton (2018): Chunky with vintage logo details
• Louis Vuitton Archlight (2018): Curved sole, futuristic ugly
• Fila Disruptor (2018): Budget alternative at $65, became ubiquitous
• Nike M2K Tekno (2018): Nike’s take on dad sneaker trend

The trend tapped into nostalgia for 1990s-2000s athletic footwear—New Balance 624, Skechers D’Lites, ASICS Gel-Kayano—shoes that prioritized comfort over style.

Cultural Phenomenon

#DadSneakers became a fashion litmus test in 2018-2019:

• Instagram fashion: Chunky sneakers with feminine dresses created high-low juxtaposition
• Street style: Fashion Week attendees wore dad sneakers with designer everything
• Memes: “Millennials will wear anything if you call it fashion” featuring Triple S
• New Balance rebrand: The brand beloved by actual dads became cool (990, 574 models)
• Controversy: Was this fashion evolution or ironic consumption?

Fashion publications debated whether dad sneakers represented democratization (celebrating unfashionable choices) or elitism (making expensive versions of cheap shoes). The trend paralleled normcore and ugly fashion movements—intentional anti-style becoming high style.

Market Impact

The chunky sneaker market exploded:

• Balenciaga: Triple S became the brand’s best-selling product
• Fila: Disruptor sales grew 400%+ in 2018, revived the brand
• New Balance: Stock price increased, collaborations with Aimé Leon Dore, J.Crew
• Resale market: Triple S resold for $1,200-1,500 at peak
• Fast fashion: Zara, H&M, Forever 21 created $30-50 knockoffs

Athletic brands entered: Nike’s M2K Tekno, Adidas Ozweego, Puma Thunder all capitalized. The trend made sneakers the dominant footwear category across demographics.

Gender Dynamics

Dad sneakers challenged gendered fashion norms:

• Women’s adoption: Chunky sneakers with dresses/skirts rejected delicate feminine footwear
• Comfort revolution: Prioritizing comfort over aesthetics became acceptable
• Athleisure overlap: Blurred lines between athletic and everyday wear
• Anti-sexy: Rejection of stilettos and uncomfortable “sexy” footwear

Fashion critics connected dad sneakers to broader movements: body positivity, comfort acceptance, rejection of male gaze dressing.

Evolution and Staying Power

Unlike many trends, dad sneakers showed unusual longevity:

• 2017-2019: Peak hype, luxury dominance
• 2020-2021: Pandemic cemented comfort footwear, sneakers became default
• 2022-2023: Trend softened but chunky sneakers remained mainstream
• New Balance cultural moment: 990v3 became the thinking person’s sneaker

By 2023, dad sneakers were no longer “trendy”—they’d become a permanent footwear category. The trend had succeeded in normalizing comfort and chunkiness. While sleeker sneakers (Adidas Sambas, Onitsuka Tigers) gained ground, the dad sneaker’s influence remained in accepted silhouettes.

Legacy

The dad sneaker trend demonstrated fashion’s power to recontextualize objects. Shoes mocked as uncool became status symbols through designer branding and influencer adoption. The trend also accelerated sneaker culture’s dominance—by 2020, sneakers outsold all other footwear categories for women.

Sources:

• Vogue: “How the Balenciaga Triple S Started the Dad Sneaker Trend” (2018)
• The Guardian: “Dad sneakers: why we can’t stop wearing ugly shoes” (2019)
• Business of Fashion: “The Sneaker Economy” (2019)